|TH 5608 

.H6 

1885 
I Copy 1 



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THE 



BUILDERS' GUIDE 



f 



AND 



POCKET COMPANION, 



BY 



Arcliitect, Carpenter andSuilder. 1 



ATLANTIC, 



IOWA. 



FIRST EDITION 
1885. 



-\?-^' 



g;^^|,^gyifi r ,» / % ^^^ }^^\ 





I. p. HICKS. 

ARCHITECT, CARPENTER And BULDER 

153 WEST 5th,. STREET, 




BUILDERS' GUIDE 



AND 



POCKET COMPANIOiN, 



BY/ 



I- IP. HIIOICS, 



Architect, Sarpentsr adBiiiHer 



ATLANTIC, ^ ----- ;. --^^^.JPwW 

f MAR 6 1885^ 



^/^ 






FIRST EDITION 

1885. 




Entered according to Act of Oongr ss, in the year 1884, 

BY 

I. P. HICKS. 




BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



INDEX TO CONTENTS. 



A Prairie Cottage 

A. Village Residtnce 

A Large and Attractive Farm House 

A Suburban City Residence 

A Convenient City Residence 

A I 1-2 Story Cottage 

A riandsome B^arra House 

A Convenient Cottage 

An Octagon Farm House Larice andCOiiv ^nt. 

A Model House 

Bay-window. Bill of Material For, 

Bills, .Making Out Of, 

Building, Cost Of, 

Bay-windows to Pievent Leaks In, 

Contract, Form Of, 

Clomplete Bills for Houses 

Carpenter Work 

(Cornicing 

Defecti\e Chimneys 

Door Jams, Framing of, 

Door Jams, Setting of, 

Estimating, Hints on, 

Figuring, Rules For, 

Foundations and' Chimneys 

Good Suggestions, 

G utters 

Hardware, Bill of 

Hanging Doors, 



66 
67 

68 
70 
78 
73 
74 
86 
.76 
78 
14 
34 
79 
43 
32 
86 
39 
45 
18 
49 
48 
51 
7 
18 
.12 
.46 
.41 
48 



HriLDKRS' GUIDE. 



Hip and Jack rafters, to obtain the length and 

bevels or~Illugtratod 60 

Etems of Interest, :> 11 

Items of Importance, 34 

Jointin;; Jam Casing, 47 

Joining JLevei and Gable Planceers to obtain 

the bevel of.— Illustrated OH 

Joining Gable Moulding with a Level Mould- 
ing, Making niitei" box for, 6o 

Labor, price of f) 

Material, To ^ stiniaie for 3 

Mathematical and Architetural Drawing.. 56 

Porch, to Make Bill For. \^ 

Prices of La'»or, by the Foot, Square «fcc 11 

Porches. Estimating of 13 

Plastering 17 

Painting 17 

Plastering, Bill of Material for 51 

Plan of Rafter— Illustrated - . - - 61 
Plan of an Irregular hip, showing how to ob- 
tain all the difleient bevels--lHustrated - 65 
Root Pitches, explanation of - . - 7 

Specitications, Necessity of - - - - 21 

Specifications, Writing of - - - - - 22 
Specifications^ Form ot ----- 23 
Stains, blackwalnut, mahogonyandothers, - 50 

Shingling a Vallev 44 

ScantlniiT Measure, Ready Reckoner - - 10 
Table, Weights of Windows - - - - 53 

Useful Items, - - - - - - 13 

Valley Ratters, to obtain the length and bev- 

els of— Illustrated 59 

Windows and Doors, 54 





1 NTRODUCTION 



iiTHjiFllS little work will l)e founcl to einhraee an 
gJS^ immense amount of tiie most \alual>le in-, 
^^•^ toimation lejrardmji tlie trader ct Contrac- 
tors, ^Carpenters and Builders. It is a well 
known tact among all mechanics, and also those 
who have had anything to do with the building 
trades, that there is very often a great discrep- 
ancy with contractors in regard to the r^ost of la- 
bor and material required for a certain building, 
the question very na'Airally arises, why so much 
ditference? 

Sometimes the difference arises from one cause 
and some times from another. It is often thro' 
inexperienced workmen and young contractors, 
but the fault is not always with them. Tlie old 
as well as the young make mistakes, and I think 
more mistakes are made from omissions and the 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



want of M practical system to tijiure upon, than 
IVoni any other cause. Carpenters seem to have 
no uniform way of estimating. With many of 
them their lij^ures are simply a guess, and they 
frequently get left. 

Figures won't lie, then why not tigure trom 
easy, practical rules and quit jumping and guess- 
ing at work which so frequently leads to serious 
i-esults? 

It is the object of this work to point out bow^ 
mistakes can be avoided in making estimates, 
and to introduce a practical system for making 
such estimates, enabling the carpenter to make 
reliable figures at all times. 

The information in this book has been collected 
from the close observation and actual experi. 
ence of a practical workman, who has had years 
of experience on just the class ot work which 
the majority of carpenters meet with from week 
to week and trom year to year. 

Trusting that the information, plans and rules 
as set forth in this work will serve to instruct 
and benefit my fellow workmen, I submit it to 
the critical observation of the wide-awake Car- 
penter and Builder. 

1. P. HICKS. 

Atlantic, Iowa, 1885. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



To EstimatE for MatErtal. 



Tomakp out an itemized bill ot* lumbor lor a 
hnil(linj( witbout aruessiiig at some parts of it, or 
witboiit foro^ettin<r items, is a very important 
thing with the carpenter ana builder. 

In order for the carpenter to make quick and 
reliable liirures, it is necessary tor him to have a 
practical system to tigure from. We want noth- 
int; lengthy or complicated; just a few, easy, 
practical rules, are wMiat is needed, for it is the 
object of this work to simplify MUd make easy 
the wearisom task of making out bills and giv- 
ing fljj:ures on contracts. It is not our inten- 
tion to point out and name every item which 
may enter into a building, or to insure a carpen- 
ter against mistakes, but we will give a system 
by which the most reliable figures can be made. 
As mistakes frequently occur from omissions, 
we subjoin a list of items, as they appear in 
ordinary house building: 

In making out a bill, begin with the list and 
go through the items in the order in which they 
are listed. Then look over the list and see if 



4 Roi i)i:i^^'Gi iDi:.. 


tliere is anyihinu- els^ wanted which is no! lis'ed 


— ifthei-e is, [uit it down, and you will tind t'.ial 


yell have a very aecuiaely itemized hill of ma- 


terial. 


. LIST OF ITEMS, 


FRAME. 


glM.S 


JACK HAFTEHS. 


piRST FLOOR JOiSTS. 


QOL'-.AR BE.WIS. 


QECOND FLOOR JOISTS 


pORCll FLOOR Joists 


pEILING JOISTS. 


p ORG 1 1 CEILING tio. 


QIDE STUDDING. 


pORCn RAFTERS. 


gABLE STUDDINa. 


DAY-WINDOW JulSTS. 


PARTITION STUDDING. 


DAY-WINDOW Studn^g. 


DLATES. 


DAY-WINDOW R AFTERS 


DAFTERS. 


QELLAR STAIRS 


UIP RAFTERS. 


Q ELL AH DOORFRAME. 


WALLEY RAFTERS. 


QELLAR Window do 


r ^^^s- <^^^> -s^~ ) 



IM:MM)KK->' (JUlDr, 



Out side FiaiEh, 



^IIJEETJNG for sides 
QHEETINC; loj; innf. 

CIIIEETING K O R 

l3 Poicll liools. 

SHEETING FO H 
Bmv Window Roofs 
T U31BER U)Y Gutters 

RIDING and Pap(M-. 

^HINGLESand 

^3 Rld<ie Boards. 

/OUTSIDE UASING 

i^ORNEIJ BOARDS. 

CORNICE LUMBER 
for all C(H nices 



WINDOW and 
. DOOV J<i;l>. 

PORCH COLUMNS 
and Brackets. 

PORCH FLOOR 
and CHilinu". 
T>ASE ANDVtEFS. 

LUMBER i OR 
B:i\-win dow tinisli 
pROWN Moulding 

|>ED MOULDING. 

"pANEL IMOULDING. 

UARTER ROUND 

tor outside tinisli. 



Q 

/^RESTING an(« 



Seroll Work: 




BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



InsidE Finish » 



Moors and WainscoUng- 

Jam Casings for Doors. 
Jam Casing for Windows, 

Inside Casing for ^oors 
And Windows. 

Window Slools, 
Stair Risers, 

Stair Steps, 
Shelves and Strips in Closets, 

Pantry Shelves, 
Base-boards, 

Base Mouldings, 
Band Moulding, 

Panel Moulding, 
Scotia and Quarter Round, 

Door and Window Stops, 
Doors, Sash and Blinds, 

Transom Sash, 
Cellar Sash, 

Corner Beads. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



Rules for Figuring, 



fHE following is a Rafter rule which is very 
convenient in calculating* the length of 
rafters when it is not convenient to draw a 
draft. This rule will be found to be very correct, 
and much shorter and easier than the old way 
of square root; Simply multiplying the width 
of the building by the corresponding decimals 
for the difference in pitch, gives the length of the 
rafters in feet, and a decimal of a foot, multiply- 
ing this decimal by 12 you have the inches. 

For 3-4 pitch c»ultiply width of Duilding by .9 

For 5-8 " • "• " *• <* " *' .8 

For 1-2 >* *' '' " " " .71 

For 5-12 " •' *' '' " '* .65 

For 1-3 ** *' *' " " " .6 

For 1-4 •< *• ** " <* " -56 



EXPLANATION OF THE PITCHES. 

A % pitch is 18 inches rise to 12 inches run. 

*' * run. 

A }4 " '* 6 ** *• '>' *' " run. 



A Vs ^' 


'• 15 


A >^ - 


.. 12 


A 5-12 ^' 


- 10 


A% '' 


- 8 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 


(S 


Example: 


?>iipi)use :» Imildinj; iir» 2G feel wide 


-iud the 


roof is >^ pitch, what-will i»e the length of the | 


; rafters? 


. 


Solution: 




Width of biiildinir hi i'eet 


2() 


■ K<M' 1^ pitch jniilripl) iVv' 


.71 




26 


feet, 


182. 


IS.^ [] 


Multiply inj^Mkeiinal hv 


12 




92 




46 


We have in inches. 


-52 


Thus the length of i-after is 18 ft. o .52 


inches. 


NET ITEMS. 




. To Jam Casings for windows allow 


10 feet.' 


. To Jam Casing for doors, allow 


10 feet- 


To outside casings, doors and windows. 


10 feet. 


To inside window casiug-s, lineal, 


20 feet. 


To inside door casings, both sides, lineal. 


36 feet. 


To band moulding window tranies, 


20 feet 


To band moulding door frams, both sides 


36 feet. 


To ordinary box porcii columns, allow 


20 feet. 


• To boxing pedestal of solid column 


6 feet. 


■ To bay window 1% inch finish 


80 feet. 


and of % inch finish, 


160 feet.' 



BUILDER>S' GUIDE. 



To stHJrwnys ^% inch tinish for sfeps 100 feet. 

To stairways % tinisli for rises, 50 feet. 

To flooriiiir, eeilinji*, sidinii* and ship-lap, add 

j one-sixth to hill and n^ake no deduction for ope- 

\ nin <i's. 

I The hest way to calculate shin<;les is to count 
ten shingles to <,he square foot when laid 4^^ in- 
ches to the weather and nine shingles to the foot 
when laid live inche'^ to the weather. 

To estimate studding]: for outside walls and 
partitions in houses; calculate them 12 inches 
from centers, then when they are set 16 inches 

\ from centers there will be enough for all neces- 

j sary doublin.ii around windows, doors and corn- 
ers. This rule is reliable and very easy to make 
estimates by. 



PRICE LIST OF LABOR. 



Makinu" common window frames, $100 

IFanjrinjj,' blinds 25 

Fitting- sash, 15 

Puttin<i: weiiihts in, 25 

Casin": windows, 40 

(Mitfinu- ill ^tops, 10 

Band niouldinii. 15 

Settin«< frame, 20 



Total amount of frame complete, $2 50 



Making common door frames, $1 00 

Hanging door and putting on lock, 50 

Casing door one side, 30 



10 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



Band mouldinus one sid*^, 
Cuttinir m stops, 
Puttinij down door sill, 
Settiu'j: frnnie. 

Total amount of frame 



!nni)lete. 



15 
15 
25 

$•2 50 



40c. 
25o. 
50f. 
25.-. 
:^^^'. 
I5i'. 
15e. 



INSIDE FRAM S. . 
Dressin .rout jams, 
Settiiiif frames. 
Oasinu l>oth sides. 
Band m mldinir. ''oth sides, 
Hanfrin? door ^nd puttinir f>n lock, 
PiittinLT down dnoi- sill. 
Cuttin'r in '1 >or stops 

Tolril am »nnr of fiame <-oniplete. 



Note: — If mortice loe-.s aieused, add I5v.'ents 
for each door. 

The prices ii:iven for outside frames are f<»r a 
frame with n moulded cap; if extra emhellish- 
ments are put on, raise the price accordingly. 



^% Wimlow sto'ds shf)uld be made of 114] inch 
lumber — % luinoei" ai Nays looks cheap and out 
of place, and tli- dirtVrmci ii» cost is ver littl". 

^*^ To pioperly tit, h in^" ami trim ^\\\h rim 
locks, ei^lit doors Is an averaire dav's work. 

^% To properly tit, hanu: and irim with mortice 
locks, five or six doors is • fair dav's work. 



BUILDKRS' cnilDK. 11 

Prices of Labor by the Foot, Square, &c. 

Puttm^Mlown hase, per lOO feet $1 OC 

Puttiiij< down quarter round, pi r UK) feet, 30 

Putting on base mouMing, per 100 feet.... 40 

For a live member cornice, per lineal loot. J3 

For putting gutter in cornice, 05 

Framing floors, coilinus. side w^ills, parti- 

ii(»ns and roofs pers(iuare 50 

Sidinr, per square 1 00 

Papering, p'r square :5 

Sheeting, per square, 40 

Shingling per square 1 00 

Flooring, pei* square, 50 

Ceiling, per square, 60 

Wainscoting, including cap. pe'* square, 1 00 

Conter boards, each, 60 

Porch columns, each, .. 1 00 



/terns of Interest, 

A live m**mt»er cornice usually consists of a 
Planceer Fascia and Frieze, with a crown and 
bed moulding. 

If a cornice has more than tive members, add 
two cents perlineai foot for each member. If a 
cornice is bracketed, add ten cents for each 
bracket for nailing up and moulding them. 

In siding, if there are more than the usual num- 
ber of openings, or if the frames are so construc- 
ted aft to cause siding a difficult job. add 25 cents 
to the usual price per square. 



12 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



A square is 10 feet square or 100 square feet. 

The price for framing per square will include 
raisini? the building and the prices for siding, 
sheeting and cornicing will include building the 
scaffolds. 

To estirrate the amount, of lumber ia a cornice 
multiply tlie length by the combined width of its 
planceer, fascia nnd freize. 



Good Suggestions. 



The prices given in this work are cnkulatcd 
on a basis of ^2 50c per day for ordinary day's 
worii, not what a man could do in a rush, but 
an average fair day's worlv. 

As the price ot laoor varies so much in differ- 
ent localities, and the Ivi'ids of work are so vari- 
able, we suggest that the mechanic keep a rec- 
ord book of the time it takes to do diffent kinds 
of work by the square, by the foot, or by the 
piece, and with a little close observation he will 
soon become an expert in figuring, and he can 
regulate his prices to suit the work and the 
times accordingly, and what is still better, he 
can rely upon his own figures, for he knows from 
actual experience just what each and every 
kind of work, is worth. If $3 QO per day are 
wanted, add 20 per cent to the prices given; if 
only two dollars are wanted, deduct 20 per cen 
from the given prices. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



13 



USEFUL ITEMS, 



To aid the carpenter in making tigures we give a 

feiv items in a condensed form: 
The material for a good bay wfndow all 

comj)lete, is worth 

I Carpenter work on tlie same, 

The material for a good sti'aight flight 

of stairs is worth 

Carpenter work on the same 

For a good black walnut hand rail, 

newel and balusters, 

For work setting uj) the same. 



$55 00 
80 00 

8 00 
6 00 

20 00 
5 00 



PORCHES MAY BE THUS ESTIMATED BY THE FOOT: 

To material for porches, per lineal foot, 1 70 

To lahor building porches per linU foot, I 00 

Note:— The above figures are for unpaiuted work, but 
hardware and tin roof for porch and bay window is in- 
cluded. 



*^* Never take contr-ictson other men's figures 
—always rely upon your own. 

%* Keep your material piled up in good shape, 
as it is more convenient to get at, and not so li- 
able to get wasted as it is when scattered around 
under foot. 



%* 2,250 shingles, properly laid, is considerea 
a fair d^y's work. 



15 BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



Bill of Maierial for Bay Window. 



3 2x8 16 feet for floor joists. 

10 2x4 1<S feet for studding and plates, 

6 2x4 12 feet for ceiling joists and rafters. 

220 *eet of sheeting, for rafters and sides. 

54 fe'^t of flooring. 

48 feet of % flnishing Iunil)er for window janis. 

80 feet of 13^ flnishing lum))er for outside win- 
dow casings. 

40 feet oX% tinishing Iura!)er for corner c;ising^* 

40 feet of % flnisli for cornice. 

20 feet of%tinisli for cresting. 

16 feet ot % tinisli for brackets. 

12x8 16 feet, surfaced, tor brackecs. 

20 feet of crown moulding. 

32 feet of bed moulding. 

96 feet of ujniel moulding. 

4 windows, 12x32, 4 lights. 

4 pair of blinds 12x32. 

96 feet lineal, of casings forinsidc. 

16 feet, lineal, of base. 

80 feet of band moulding. 

64 feet of parting stops . 

64 feet of ogee window stops. 

16 feet of quarter round. 

2 corner beads. 



Hardware.- 60 tee t of rooting tin; 35 lbs of 
nails. [Plastering, 20 yards.] 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 15 1 


Bill of Material 
o 2x6 16 feet 


for Porch, 5X16 Feet 


for floor joists. 


4 2x4 16 feet 


for ceiling joists. 


6 2x4 14 feet 


for rafters. 


2 4x4 16 feet .... 


for columns. 


I 2x4 16 feet ... 


for half columns. 


100 feet 


. . . of flooring 16 feet long. 


90 feet or oeilinir 
120 feet 


14 feet long. 


. of sheeting 16 feet long, 
of ^ finish for bajje. 


20 feet 


3) feet of % finish for boxing columns 

100 feet ...of J^ finish for cornice. 

16 feet of % finish for brackets. 

m feet of ys, finish for cresting. 

30 feet of 11^ finish for two steps 8 feet long. 

1 2x8 12 feet for brackets. 

36 leet of crown moulding. 

60 feet of bed moulding-. 


100 teet 


of quarter round. 


Hardware.— 120 1 
1 nails. 

^*^ Koiir biiek or s 
tion. 

In sliingling, add f 
roof, 50 cents. 




eet of rooting tin; 40 lbs of 
tone pieis for the founda- 


or each hip or valley in the 



16 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



Ready RBckonBr—ScanUing Measure. 



2x4 I 2x6 I 2x8 | 2x10 | 3x6 | 3x8 













, J 


















































4J 


•;( 


^ 


be 


,j^ 


:l 


^ 


■rf 


^ 


br 


a> 


s 


o 


^ 


O) 


S 


x» 


^ 


0) 










i; 


c^ 






0) 






^ 


^ 


'^ 




^ 


^ 


^ 


uJ 


fc 


J 



1'^ 

16 



9 1 
11 



18 ! 12 

' i 

2.'^ j 18 
15 



1 12 


12 


12 


i^^ 


14 


14 


16 


16 


16 


18 


18 


18 


20 


20 


20 


22 


22 


22 


21 


24 


24 


26 


26 


26 



12 , 20 



14 

21 I 16 

24 ; 18 

27 20 ^8 

■ i 
20 ; 22 



32^ 24 

I 
85 ' 26 



12 



14 



16 24 
18 I 27 
20 80 



4X4 i 4X« 



I 4 X8 I OXO 

12 82 12 , 36 



6X8 ; 8X8 



14 37 I 14 I 42 
16 82 . 16 ' 48 1() 4S 



IS 


24 , IS 


86 


20 


•-7 20 


40 


22 


20 22 


44 


24 


82 24 


18 


26 


35 26 


52 



18 
20 
22 
24 
26 



4S.1S 54 

I i 

:^'^ 20 60 
50 I 22 66 



24 72 
26 7S 



12 


48 


14 


56 


16 


i}\ 


IS 


72 


20 


SO 


22 


ss 


24 


96 


2(> 


106 



i<; s") 

! 
IS; 96 



107 
117 
128 
im) 



BUlLDE^iS' GUIDK. 



Painting- 



VVIkj" a carpenter has painting lo figure on, il 
is heller lor liiin to get some reliable mechanic 
who is in the business, to give figures on his re- 
spective work. Painters figure their work by 
the square yard and at this writing and in ihis 
locality their price is, for two coiil work of the 
best lead and oil paini, lo cents per yard. A 
good many \ards nave lo bt- added i'jv brackets, 
mouldings and sci'oll work, and it is advi.sable 
to let painters figure ihe painting. 



PLAbTLKl NG. 



Plasleiing is also figured by ihe sqiiaie\ard 
and to fuiuishand do the work in thi-» locality 
the piices are as follows: 

For two coat work, 2(r cents per yard; for 
three coat work, with hard finish, 27 cents per 
yard. In figuring piistering find out the price 
per yard in your own locality, carefully estimate 
the numberof yards in the building, and it makes 
no ditto! ence whether you are in New Vork or 
Iowa your figures will be reliable. 



Any piece of scroll work may be quickly and 
accurately estimated by keeping the correct 
time it takes to 8aw a piece or section of it at av- 
erage speed. 



lb. HUU.DKRS' (lUlDi . 



Foundations and Chimneys, 



Foiindatioiis are generally «>r hrick or stiuu'.— 
Brick are^iaid by the thousaiid, and ^t«»ne by the 
perch. .Brick are fiirnishert and laid in the wa 1 
for ten dtdlars per theousaMd, and st^ne for 
about (our doll I rs per perch. 

There are 25 cul)ic feet in a perch of stone. A 
thousand brick are about equal to two perch of 
stone when laid in a wall. Brick are counted as 
follows: 

For a four inch wall. "3^ brick to the foot. 

For an eight inch wall 15 brick to the fo- t. 

For a twelve inch wall 223^ brick tc the foot. 

For a Sixteen inch wall, 30 biick to the foot. 

Coni!n"n chinini'Vsin linus«-«s r. quii» a'x.ui -o 
♦•ririi ti» the foot and co^t; \Vhen laid \]\> in hous«> 
all <'omjdt^te, about on^ d(dlar per fool. 



DEFECTIVE CHIMNEYS. 

In building chimneys much c-are and attnn- 
tion should be given them that they may b^pvop- 
erlv construe ted. 

Chimneys should always' start from a solid 
foundation, and where all stovepipes can enter 
tbem direct from the stove vAitbout passing thro' 
partitions and ceilinirs. Stove-pipes passing 
through partitions and ceilings in the ordinary 
way, are dangerous, and are often the cause of 
tires. If a stove pipe has to pass through a pai"- 



BUILDERS^ GUI OK. 19 

tirion. don't put in a little ceilinir tut»e ai»out niru' 
inches in diamttei\ l>iu cut in a header bet \ve«n 
the sMiddinL*-, six or eight inches below th<^ P'pt'. 
and 'nive it bricl<ed up around the pipe with at 
if^ast three courses of l>rick. This will t)e safe 
ai)d can tye done cheaply. 

The ceiliui^ tube which conies inta direct con- 
tact with the stove-pipe and the lath and, soruf- 
times, with the studding, will, on a cold day 
wiien the lire is urijed, become sulficiently heat- 
ed, occasion ully, to set w^ood on lire; therefore, 
thev should not be used. Stove-pipes that pass 
through ceiliuiis should pass tho^mgh a stove- 
pipe register, which is about 14 inches in diame- 
ter. These we consider practically safe, as there 
is a large air space in the register, between the 
pipe and where the register comes in contact 
with, the floors and ceilings. 

Chimneys shr)uld be l>uilt as nearly sfraijrht ms 
possible and when easy access lo them can be 
had from all sides, so that the masons can care- 
fully point all the joints and plaster them inside 
and out to the top of the root. If we have only 
afour inch brick wall between the wood and the 
destructive element of tire, we should know that 
the wall is well built. , 

All joists and trimmers cut around chimneys 
where they pass through floors, ceilings and 
roofs, should be entirely free from the chimney, 
so that in case the chimney should^ettle, if- will 
not crack and leave a piae^Tol\flre't6escape.; .. ' 

The proper size for a good chlmH^y' We betieve 




20 BUILDKRS' (^UlDh. 

is for the insidp iiieHsiirement of the flue to be 
8x8 or 8x1-2 inches and all ohimneys should be 
provide d with a good ash pan situated below 
where the pipe enters the chimney. This is a 
very valuable essential, as the soot which 
accumulates and clogs up flues can be readly 
taken out hy means of the ash pan. We are not 
in favor of hot air pipes from furnaces passinir 
through narrow partitions of lath and plaster un- 
protected. We believe that all partitions thro' 
w^hich hot air pipes pass should be sufficii otly 
wide to allow a space of at least six inches be- 
tween the pipe and the studding and lath. Yet 
in many cases hot air pipes in dwellings come 
into direct contact with wood, inside of the par- 
titions through which they pass. It is no wonder 
then that we have <(>nie mysterious tiros when 
we look at the many Are traps ihat are careh ss- 
Iv allowe*! to be placed in our iMiildinjrs. 






Remarks and Suggestions. 



As the cost of material and labor in difteront 
localities is variable, it is and always will be 
necessary for the con ti actor to keep himself 
posted in regard to prices, so that he can esti- 
mate from some basis and not jump at conclu- 
sions. 

No contractor should take work without know- 
ing the location of the ground and the distance 
of hauling materials as all these are important 
Items in the cost of building. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE, 21. 



Necessity of Specifications. 

The (inality of material and the workmanship 
employed in the construction of buildings can 
be so vaii^Ml as to cause a trreat diflerence in the 
bids 01 <*()ntractors on work, hence the necessity 
of drawiniTs and specifications, for without them 
no two contractors will liii:ure the same Kind of 
Tr>aterial or the same kind and quality of work 
throughout a buildinsir. To arrive at a uniform 
price, and to have a fair footing, all must figure 
from the same basis. It is easier for any good 
mechanic to figure from drawings and specifica- 
tions than any other way. It is also much easier 
to work from drawings and specifications, as the 
crntractor knows just w^hat he ha<! to do, ttie 
kind of materia to be used, and he d.urt have to 
lose time to frequent Iv look up the proprietor 
an(! consult bin) about this and about that. His 
work is all laid <»iit for him. and a glance at the 
drawiu'^s oi* specifications will generally set 
him aji .'ht, if at any time he becom<^s involved in 
doul)t about certain parts of the building. 

The variety of the work is so great that no 
form could be given which would b^ consistent 
with all kinds of work, therefore every job of 
w^ork will need its own s} ecifications, which may 
be easily written out by looking over the list of 
items and stating the kind of material to be used 
and how the work shall be finished throughout 
the entire building. We give a form of specifi- 
cations as written from the list of items which 
will show how to w^rite specifications. Blank 



t82 



buildp:rs' guide 



spar^'es 'Me left in the foirn to l)e tilled out to— >vrit 
ihe work in question, and it can he so vari< d by 
addin«; to or takinj^ from, -'S to be applicable lo 
nearlv all ordi ary work. 



Items from which to Write Specificatons 
MASON WORK. 

Excavation for cellars and w alls. 
Cellar walls and foundation. 
Piers in Cellar ana under porches. 
Chimneys, lath and plaster. 



Carpenter WorW. 



Timber:— Sill?: and lirst floo»- joists. 
Collar beams and 'rafters. 
Second floor joists, ceilin<; joists. 
Studdin<?side walls and partitions. 
Cellar stairs and cellar frames. 
Sheeting walls of house. 
Siding and papering. 
Sheeting roofs and shingUiig. 
Forehand bay-window roofs. 
Porch floors and ceiling. 
Porch columns, steps, lattice, finish. 
Bay-window^ finish. 
Cornice and outside trimmings. 
Gutters and conductors. 
Window and doorframes. 
W indows, doors and blihdft. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



INSIDE FINISH. 

Kloors, (;asjng> and base. 

Base niouldii:>r and bed moulding, 

Wijinseotin^ in kitchen. 

Shelving, pantry and cupboard. 

Finishing closets . 

Siaiis, nev\el, rail and balusters. 

Doors and trimmings. 

Hardware t ) be used. 

P inting and finishing. 



FORM OF SPECIFICATIONS. 



Mason Work. 

KXCAVATIONS: - .,^^ ~9^n«,wxr.r; \ 

b^xcivaie lor <*ellar under to the 

<i'n'tl» of ,making the cellar feet deep 

in the <lear. Ex« avate for foundatioiV w'allis to 
the debth oi .. : .....:.. ' 

Found *Tiiw'^ Walls:— ' '^ *.'. :-:.: -^ - •. 

Foundation vvalls to be a inch...'^ 

wall, laid up in good mortar. Wall to be...... 

above the* ground at the highest part of the a 
ground. ' Hi-njoH/iii iii /"^Hjjiiq «li ill; rn f*^>te i 

Cellar WalIls:^-^^- i^^'-^-^t'^^'''^^^ '^-^^ ''■- - ' "^-^^' \ 

The cellar w^alls will be wall laid 

up with good mortar and w^ell pointed. 

Piers:— 

Also, build piers under cross-sills and un- 



24 BUILDERS' GUIDE, 

der porches u here indicated on thegnumd plans 
Chimneys:— 

The chimeneys vvill he of the lollovving di- 
mensions: Chimney to willb- 

inches, and start from Chimney to 

will be ....and fctart fn.ni 

chimney rest feet below the ceiling. 

Lath and Plastr: — 

All walls and ceilinjrs above the cellar will 

be well lathed and plastered with coats 

if good mortar, troweled down to a smroth 
and even surface. 
Haui) Finish: - 

The walls of the an- to liav*- 

three coats or a h-rd finish, A II angh^s are to 
be carried up true and plumb, and the entire 
vvorri left uninjured and tinished i!i a work- 
manlike manner. 



Carpenter Work. 



Dimensions and style of building will be ob 
tained from drawings, the figures on them be 
ing preferred to the scale measurement in all 
cases. 
Timber :- 

All timber necessary lo carry out the entire de- 
sign in all its parts will be sound pine, free from 
shakes or bad defects, and as dry as the market 
afi'ords. 

JlJILLS:— 

The sills will be and of the following 

number: 



HUILDKR.V liUlDi:. 



First Ki OOR JonsTSi- 
Tlie tirsl floor joists will be.. placod 16 

iucties from ceuters gained into sills and spikeil 
Second Floor Joists:-- 

Will lie placed 16 inches from cen- 
ters and to rest on a ]y6 girt framed into tli'j 
studding and well spiked. 
Ceiling Joists:— 

Ceiling joists of main iniilding to be 

spiked to plates and partitions. Ceiling joists 

of kitclien to be. and well spiKed to 

p ates. 
Collar Beams:— 

Collar beams to be ....... well spiked to 

rafters. 

Plates:— 

Will be doubled and lapped ai the 

corners and well spiked to the studding. 

Rafters :~ 

The rafters will be placed 

from centers. Hip and valley rafters will be 

propel ly cut and fitted. The jack 

rafters will be and placed 

from centers. 
Deck Plates and Decks:— 

Deck Plates will be and size of 

decks will be as follows: 

Studding :— 

The studding for side walls and partitions 

will be placed 16 inches from centers, 

and doubled at all angles and around all open- 
ings. 



26 BUILDERS' GUIDE. 

Partitions :— 

AH partition'* arc to be set pliinih and true 
to the lilies as niarkefi out on the plans. 

F4EADKRS AND TKIMMKRS:- 

Headers and Trinmiers are to ite cut in 
around all stairs, ttues. and wherever neces- 
sary. 

Ckllar Stairs: ~ 

The eellar stait s will he made ol 

and of as easy rise hs the space for them will 
admit. 

Cellar VV^indows and Doors: — 

There will be eellar windows, size ....... 

and a cellar door frame, with door made of 
tlooriuic fitted and hun::. 
Shketing Walls of House:— 

The outside walls of house to be sheeted 

with and papered with good 

iMiildniiT paper before sided 

81DING:— 

Sid in jic to be I aul 43^ inches to the 

weather, with close joints and in a strai^rht 
and workmanlike manner. 
Sheeting Roofs and Shingling:— 

The roofs to be shingled to be sheeted with 

and shingled with laid 

43^ inches to the weather in a straight and 
workmanlike manner, with joints properly 
broken. 
Porch and Bay Window Roofs:— 

Porch and bay-window roofs to be sheeted 
with and covered with good rooflng tin. 



BUILDERS' aumm 



Porch Ceiling :— 

Porches to be ceiled with and 

flnished with quarter round properly out 
around tlie iMnder. 
I*ORCH Floors :- 

Porch floors to he . lai I with close 

joints and l)lind nailed. 

Porch Steps and Lattice:— 

'Porch steps and Lattice under p;rch to V)e 
constructed as shown in diawinit. 
Porch columns:— 

Make porch columns as shown in tlie draw- 
ings andlinish the porches throu;Lihout accord- 
ing to the entire design. 
Bay- Window Finish:— 

Finish the bay-window as sliown and de 
scribed in drawings with a neat bracketed and 
moulded cornice 

Cornice AND Outside Trimmings :— 

Construct all cornice as shown in the de- 
tails; putting up the same in a straight and 
workmanlike manner. 
Gutters and Conductors:— 

Form gutters in the cornice as shown in the 
detail drawings of cornice, and provide and • 

put up conductors as follows: 

Window and Door Frames:— 

Make the window and doorframes with a 
moulded cap as shown in the drawings. Win- 
dow frames to be made for weights and to be 
provided with outside rolling slat blinds prop- 
erly fitted and hung. 



28 BUILDERS* GUIDP:. 



Outside Casings and Corner Boards :- 

All outside casings nncl coriuM* boards will 
l)e made of flnishmji: lumbc^r. 



Inside Finish, 



Heighth of Stories :— 

Height of rirst story will l»e ...*.. 

Height of second story will be 

Floors:— 

The floors of the tirst story will be 

except the Kitchen, dininir room and pantry: 

these w. 11 be The floors of thf* 

second story will be Ail 

tlooi-s to be hiid with (dose joiiits and blinci 
nailed and to have one row of <-voss bridi:in<i 
pr(»perly titled and nailed. 

Casings AND Ja^^s :- 

The jam casings of all doors to be made of 
two inch finish, and to be rabbitted to receive 
the door. Tbe jam casinii:s of windows will be 
Ji finish. 

Number OF Frames:— 

The number otframes and their size will be 
taken from the list. 




BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



29 



LJSf OF 



Mi mmn. 



SIZE AND STYLE. 



No, 



Windows, 

Windows, 

Wind )as .... 

\\ iudo \vs 

D )ors 

D . .rs, 

D >')\'r>, 

Ooors, 

Doors 

Donrs 



Inside Casings:— 

The inside casings to be and the win- 
dows and doors of the are to be band- 

maulded with inch band moulding The 

windows in the will i»e cased to the floor 

and panneied; all other windows will be cased 
in the nsnal way. 

Base and Moulding:— 

The base in the will be and 

moulded on top ed^e with base mould- 
ing. All other base will be plain ogee base. 



30 



BUILDERS^ GUIDE. 



Quarter Round:— 

Provide and put down quarter round to all 
base. 
Wainscoting :— 

The kitchen and VAill be wainscoted 

feet liigh and tinislied with a neat 

moulded cap. 
Shklvks AND Flour Chest:— 

Shelve thep^ntry and cupboard all complete 

also make flour chest with separate 

apartments. 
Closets:— 

Finish closets with shelf and strips for hooks, 
putting one dozen hooks in each closet. 
Stairs : — 

Build stairs of 13^ inch finish, except the ri- 
sers, wich will be % finish; make the stairs of 
as easy rise as the place for them will admit of 
and furnish and put up in a substantial man- 
ner a black walnut newel, balusters and hand 
rail of the following size and style: 

Newel Post, .___ 

Balusters,. . 

Railing, ... 

Corner Beads:— 

Provide and put in Corner beads on all pro- 
jecting corners. 



I 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 31 



i3:^i^iD-\Ar^i^E. 



The doors of the will have butts 

and .locks. 

The doois of the will have butts 

and locks. 

The double doors will have butts 

and locks. 

The closet doors will have butts 

and locks. 

The cupboHid doors will haA'e butts 

•.\\\i\ «iii)l)oard catches. 

All windows hun.^' with weii^hts are to be pro 
vided with sash locks, and those without weij^hts 
with sjish bolts: 

— REGISTRES,— 

Furnish and put in the following registers: — 
One in and one in 



PAINTING. 

The entire house is to receive coats of 

best lead and oil paints, of such colors as may 
be chosen by the parties concerned. The wood- 
work in the will be grained and 

varnished, and the floors of the following rooms 

are to have coats of good paint, viz; 

Also, all tin roofs, gutters and conductors are to 

be painted with coats of paint. All work 

to be finished in a neat and workmanlike man- 
ner. 



32 BUlLDKHs^ (lUlDh. 

-FINALLY- 

The coiiuaetoris required to fyniisli aii mate- 
rial and laboi" necessary to eonipiet,e the build- 
ing aecordiii«i' to the plans and speeitieaiioiis, 
and to carry out the entire design in all its [j-ris. 
doingall work in a substantial and woi kniaiiliUe 
manner, to the best of his ability. 
Signed by 

Party of first i)art. 

Pariy Sec'nd Fart. 



FOMM OF COKTHACT. 

Articles of Agreement, min\ki on this 

day of 

A. D., 18 by and i>etv\ een 

party of the tiist i)artf 

and Pi^ty of the 

second part: Witnesseth, That lor; and in 
consideration of the money hereinafter stipula- 
ted, to be paid to the party of the first part by 
the party of the second part, the party of the first 
part has, and by these conditions does hereby 
agree to furnisn all labor and material of every 
kind, and to build and complete on, or by the 
on the premis- 
es of the party of the second part, situated in 



nuU.OKRS' GUlDh. 



38 



., a residence 

as shown upon the drawings and set toi'th in the 
speeitications. Said drawinjufs and specitications 
heiui;- veirtted by the sijinatiire of the parties are 
to he taKen as a part of this contract. And the 
[)arty of the tirst part aj^rees thai all marerial 
furnished, or workniansliii) emi)loyecl shall be of 
the hest character and quality as mentioned in 
the said specitications. The party of the tirst 
part further agrees that he wit] complete, in 
accordance witli the i)lans and specitications, 
to the full and entire satisfaction of the party of 
the second part all the work that is to he done 
l>y the 

Ill c »ii>i(l(MMtinn «>(' uiii( h thepart> uf tl»e Sfc- 
niid p;iri aiiJVM'^ to pay to the party of the first 
pari rhe sum of .$ , as loljows: 

When the toundalions a i e completed. $ 

When The ennre huildingis under loof .$ .. 

When the entij'e l»uilding is plastered, $ 

\V lien the entii-e building is completed .$ 

In Witness whereof, the parties hereto have 
affixed their signatures. 



ixr;.[ 



Witness: 



C^i^- 



lU BUILDER.V nUIDK. 



Items of Importance. 

A contract made on Sunday cannot he en- 
forced. 

An agreenifcut without a consideration is void. 

Each individual in partnership is responsihle 
for the whole amount of the debts of tiie tirm. 

A note dated on Sunday is void. 

MAKING OUT BILLS. 



The following bills and estimates may seem 
somewhat extended as they are calculated in 
detai!, each item being specitied for its intended 
use. In makintr out hills we frequently find two 
or more iten^s of material which are similar, but 
are tobeused in ditt'eient parts of the l)Ui1din^- 
and for a different imrpo^e; hem-e. the necessity 
of similar items l>einii- separately specitied as to 
their amounts and intended vise. 

Tn this way of makinu- out bills of material and 
estimates on lahor, mistakes and omissions may 
be readily detected and avoided This is the 
prnper way to arrive at correct estiraata^s. and it 
is to the interest of the carpenter and his em- 
ployer that estimates may be made complete; 
then \\ hen they settle, they will not be surprised 
with extra bills, nearly as long as the orignals, 
from the lumber dealer, hardware merchant and 
others. 

We have frequently seen extra bills nearly as 



BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 85 



long and willi nearly as many items as t he origi- 
nal bill contained; tlie extra items aggregnting 
sometimes, to several hundred dollars. This 
state ofatlairs should not exist; it shows soine- 
tliing wanting in the carpenter or his system of 
CMlculating. It shows that he guesses more 
than he tigurcs, or, thnt he don't know how to 
tigure, and uses poor judgment in guessing. 

Sometimes a carpenter will make out a bill of 
material that would hold out, but the bill costs 
too much money and his emi)loyer cannot see 
where in the world the mechanic is uoinu to put 
all that material in one little l>uilding. Then the 
thing i« tigured over ana over till it is tigured 
down to a feather edge, and in the end -some one 
gets left; generallv the carpenter, l)ut sometimes 
it is both parties. 

Be sure you are right then go ahead. Make 
itemized bills which you know are correct and 
stick to your figures; it is the only safe way to 
take contracts and it is essential to the prosper- 
ity of any well regulated trade or business. 

These bills wei'e selected as model bills, as 
they emoody nearly every item in a bill tor com- | 
mon house:-. As no list of items of hardware I 
has been given, we request carpenters and bull- ^ 
ders to compare their bills of hardware with the 
bill given; it may save omitting some important 
item. 




36 BUILDEHh' GLIDE. 



COMPLETE BILL FOR A HOUSE. 



The following is a complete l>ill for a iioiise 
vvitli the figiues carried out s>ho\Ning 1k>\v the es- 
timating of material and la!>or for building may 
be reduced to an easy, practical system. 

The hruse is a two story frame, 24 feet square, 
18 feet high with half pitch, shingle hip roof, hav- 
ing a deck roof 14 feet square covered with tin. 
It has a one story addition 14x16 feet, 9 feet high, 
with half pitch shingle hip roof, with deck rot)f 
8xl< feei, cov'M-ed with tin. A sciuare l)r»\ win- 
dow, 4xSfeet. Two porches, each oxl4 feel and 
one 5x:12feet with tin roofs make ui* ihe balance 
of ibe house. The main [)art of tht- building has 
three rooms, a hall and one closet on ea<h Am r. 



LUMBER BILL. 



5 


6x8 


2 


6x8 


1 


6x8 


34 


2x8 


11 


2x8 


8 


2x8 


19 


2x8 


30 


2x6 


8 


2x6 


8 


2x6 



FKET. 

24 teet. Sills 480 

14 feet Sills 112 

16 feet. Sills 64 

12 feet, first floor joists 544 

14 feet, kitchen joists 209 

16 feet, bay window joists ...... . 

cellar stairs and cellar frames. 168 

24 feet, second floor joists 608 

14 feet, ceiling joists 420 

18 feet, ceiling joists 144 

10 feet, ceiling jois-ts 80 



I 


BUlLUii:iiS' GUIDE. 


37 


1 ^^ 


ls.6 16 feet, ceiling joints to Iviichen. 


. 176 


' 4 


2x6 14 feet, f n" deck plates 


56 
.. 36 


I 
2 


2x6 LO feet ^ "^"^^^ plates to kitchen . . 


6 


2x6 10 fee I !o • h i p ra f te rs 


. 60 


6 


4x4 18 feel for corner studding 


. 144 


164 


2x4 18 feet side and partition studdii 


g 1968 


24 


2x4 Hy feel for plates 


. 264 


82 

J8 
26 


2x4 14 feet for rafters 


. 288 
. 144 
. 234 


2x4 12 ftei for I'afters to kitchen 


2x4 14 teet for porches 


8 
6287 


2x4 16 feet for bay window, 


. 88 
. 6287 
113 16 


Total amount '»f feet in frame,.... 


feel fiMiniijg lunii)er at .$18 per M 


210iMMca sliiplap at $19 per M 


39 90 


2200 fet.^t sidi 11^' a t 20 per m 


44 00 


1030 feet sheeting for main roofs 17 perM 


17 51 


380 ft sheet, porch & bay w. rPs 17 per m 


6 46 


250 feet for gutters in cornice... 17 per m 
7 Mshinii:ies at 3 .50 M 


4 25 
24 50 


1400 ft 6 in. flooring for main buil. 30 per m 


42 00 


500 feet vellow pine flooring for 

kitchen and porclj floors, 35 per m 


17 50 


240 ft ceiling for porches at 30 per m 


7 20 


240 ft ceiling for cupboard doors. 

sink fuid wainscoting in k'cn 30 per m 


7 20 


450 


ft \]4 finish for outside cas- 
ings, bay window and stairs 45 per m 


20 25 


400 ft % fln. to cornice main b. 40 per m 


16 00 


120 ft % flnish for brackets at. . 40 per m 


4 80 


400 ft % fin. to cornice porches 






bay window and ki chen at. .40 per m 


16 00 



38 



BUILDERS' GUIDE, 



300 



3 
4 
o 

100 

110 

360 

920 

700 

120 

200 

80 

350 

250 

110 

100 

272 

1 

1 

9 

2 

6 

9 

2 

6 



ft % linish for window jams 
stairs and ^helves in p'ntry 

and clost'ts at 40 j)er M 

2x6 14 ft siirf'd for door j'ms 40 per M 
2x6 16 ft ** for wind, sills 40 pei' M 
2x8 16 ft '' for door sills 

and brackets at 40 ])er m 

2x14 12 ft surf, for brackets '40 per M 
4x4 16 ft *' for porch col. 40 per m 
2x4 16 ft '' " '' '' 40 per M 
ft finishing lumb. for steps. 40 per m 
ft lineal of 8 inch sq're base 80 i)ei- M 
ft *' ^^ 8 ^^ ogee • 35 per m 
ft •■' •'53^'*' ^'casings 35 per m 

ft quarter round at 60c 

ft 5 inch crown mould at 3 50 

ft 33^ '' '' " '' 2 50 

ft 3 '' '^ - '' 2 00 

ft 2% '' bed '' '* 2 00 

ft 2}4 " band "' " 2 00 

ft 23^ " base "• '' 2 00 

ft 2 " panel '" - 1 50 

ft 13^ •' o<»ee window stops. . 75 

cellar sash, 8x10, 3 light? 

transom ••' 8x14, 2 lights 

windows, 12x30, 4 lights at... 1 80 
'' 16x30 2 '' at ... . 1 60 

" 12x28 4 '* at . . 1 60 

pair blinds 12x30 at. 150 

" " 16x30 at 1 50 

'' '• 12x28 at 1 50 



2(1 
20 
00 
60 
00 
00 
20 

1 50 

2 04 
60 
75 

16 20 

3 20 
9 60 

13 50 
3 00 
9 00 



12 00 


9 52 


2 56 


2 52 


3 36 


3 36 


88 


4 00 


3 30 


12 60 


32 20 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



89 



No. Do >rs|FT IN 
2 

iO 
I Dnoi- 
1 

I 



One side circle top pannel, 

Newel post, hand rail and balusters,.. 
corner beads at 25c each 



IN FT IN 

6x70 


TH'CK 

NESS 
1 8-4 


PRICE 

$2. 51) 


6x6 


6 


I 3-8 


2 25 


4x6 


6 


13-8 


2 25 


X 6 





1 3-16 


2 25 


cS X 6 


8 


134 


nioul. 



$ cts 
5 00 

22 50 
2 25 
2 25 



6 00 

17 00 

1 50 



Total amount of lumber bill, $611 87 



NOTK.— The prices given on lumber are per 
thousand feet, and mouldings per hundred feet. 



CARPENTER WORK 



22 squares fiaminiJ: floors and ceil- 
ings at 50 $11 00 

21 *' framing outside walls at .50 10 50 

10 ^* '^ partition walls at 50 5 00 

11 •• "- roofs at .50 5 00 

19 '' sheeting side walls at 40 7 60 

19 *• siding at 1.00 19 00 

7 -' shingling at 1.00 7 00 

Shingling6 hipsat 50 3 00 

14 squares of flooring at. 50 7 00 

IH " of wainscoting at 1 .00 1 50 



40 BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



112 lin. I'T cor nice tn niniii Imildin^- .1' $10 80 

16 kitclien at 15 2 4n 

156 -^ *^ .;f -litters ;it 05 7 80 

•24 brackets lo niain lmil(lin«r 40 9 60 

6 brackets to kitchen 5il 85 2 M> 

40 lin. ft of porches brck'ls inclii. 1 .00 40 00 
Work on l)ay-\vin(lo\v, not in- 

cliidiniT the window frame.*.. 20 00 

6 Corner boards at 60 3 60 

7 Window frames with weights, 

cased and b;»nd moulded at.. 2 5(> 17 50 
10 Window frames without vv't?:, 

cased and not moulded at... 2 10 21 00 
() Outside door frames complete, 

not band moulded, ar 2 .o5 7 05 

4 inside frames <-ompete, nio'ld. 2 2) 8 s() 

8 '' " " nnt •• 2 .05 16 40 

I Cellar window tiame. ai .40 40 

1 •* door •• •• .60 60 

Makins< cellar doois 1 50 

Making cellar stairs, 2 00 

Puttinu' down 460 ft of Ikish at I .00 4 60 

700 feet quarter round at .30 2 10 

110 feet base moulding at 40 4 40 

RnildinL- staiisat 6 00 

Putting up hand rail 5 00 

Shelving pantry and cui)boird 6 00 

Finishing closets, ^. 2 00 

Making flour chest 2 00 

Making sink 3 00 

Building outside ste])s 4 00 

Hauling material on ground. . 16 25 

Total amount of cai penter work, $310 00 



bUlLDEKh' GUIDE. 41 



HARDWARE BILL. 



I 



125 lbs 2ad iiaiib, $3 75 

25U '' lOd '' ..;. 7 5u 

50 ^- 8d ^- ...iv I 65 

40 •^ . t>d ** wi..;...........^. i 40 

25 - 3d '• .., 1 aO 

t)0 '' lOd casuig iiailis 2 80 

40 '^ 8d - •• 160 

20 - 6d •• - «5 

8 •• 4d •• •• , 36 

** ot" brads 40 

17 set of blind mii^eb. 3 LO 

36 window boilo 11-8 

28 axie pulieyb .. 1 oO 

7 sash iocks » 1 05 

180 feet sash cord 1 5 J 

28 window weiglits 4 5a 

10 mortice locks 5 00 

5 rim locks, 2 00 

3 pair of butts, 4 x 4 60 

7 *• '- '' 33^x33^ 1 00 

5 3x3 70 

12 '• '^ '•^ narrow wrought butts 

for cupboard, flour chest and sink 1 00 

1 pair wrought butts for cellar door 20 

1 pair T strap hinaje^ and hasp for QUt- 

side cellar door . 40" 

6 cupboard catches ,.........•; 1 20 

6 hooks and eyes — 25 

2 drawer pulls...... 15 

2 mortice bolts 70 



42 


BUILDERS' GUIDE. 


. . 2 00 
50 


I 
I 

15 

10 

20 

259 

334 

235 

106 

46 

56 

8 

Toe 
To( 

To I 
Tol 
To; 
Tot 


stove pipe register 

ash pan for ehiiiinev 


rubber tippf'd door stoj-s 

tin window caps 

tin sliin^ies, 

ft of valley tin for gutter 


75 

.. 1 80 

60 

. . 16 84 


ft tin on deck roof. 21 71 

ft tin rooting on porches 15 67 

ft ol valley tin on porches and kitchen 6 89 
ft tin rooting on l)av window 3 00 


ft ttiree inch conductors 


. . 5 30 


<^lbows, 


80 


Screws and sand paper 


.. I 00 


Two dozen coat and hat hooks 

Total amount of Hardware Bill..,. 


50 


. $123 50 

$ 8 Oc ; 
60 00 
4 00 
44 00 
70 00 
73 98 

259 98 


MASON WORK, 

ixcavatini:- for celhir and t reni'hes. . . 
)000 brick laid in walls 


3uildinL^ ne^'essary piers tor porches. 
Duildin*^ 44 feet of chinmevs 


^50 y'ds plastering, 2 coats at 20cts,. 
>74 y'ds plastering, 2 coats at 27 cts.. 

Amount of Mason Work, 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 43 

PAINTING. 



460 yards otpainiiii*^-, two coats, floors 

not Jiicluded, at 15 cts $ 69 00 

40 yards of painting kitchen and di- 
ning room floors, at 15 cts 6 00 

Amount of Painting $75 00 

Recapitulation. 

Luml>er l^>ill, $611 87 

Carpenter Bill, 310 00 

Hardware Bill, 123 50 

Mason vvork,... 259 98 

Painting 75 00 

Insurance and incidental expenses 15 00 



Total amount of house complete. . $1395 35 



To Prevent Leaks in Bay Windows. 



It seems to be vei y difficult for the carpenter 
to build a bay window that will not leak in a bad 
storm of rain and wind. 

There are few bay-windows built that do not 
have a window, or a large double window, di- 
rectly over them, the leak is, almost invariably, 
right down by the casings of these windows.— 
The bay-window may be well roofed and the tin 
turned up under the siding for five or six inches, 
yet it will leaK and be a mystery to close obser. 



44 . BU1LDKR8' GUIDK. 

vers -IS to \vhere the vvater' ^etii in at. Water 
ti^ht joints are no always made in sidin«' and 
sometimes the casings shrink trom the siding tlien 
the rain beats in by the side of the casings of 
these upper *vindows and runs down l)"hind the 
tin turned up from the roof, thus causing a leak. 
To prevent this, saw through the sheeting un- 
der the window, sawing about eight inches to 
each side, slanting the same upward in sawing 
Now put a piece of tin well into the saw kerf . 
find bend it down over the tin that turns up from 
the roof, then, after the siding is proi)erly put 
on, you vs^ill have a bay window that is positive- 
ly water-tight.. Care should be taken in siding 
and not drive nails to near the roof and it is bet- 
ter to slant them a little upwa>'d in driving. — 
In no f^ase should the t-ills of upper windows, 
come closer tiian 4)4 inches to the roof of the 
bay-window; it is necessarx i<» have room for tin 
to insure a good job. 



Shingling a Valley. 

First see that the nail heads are well driven 
into the sheeliuir so that they will not make holes 
in the tih,then take a roll of 14inch tin, of proper 
length and unroll it in the vallev so the water will 
run over the seairs, not against them. Adjust the 
tin to the centre of the valley and bend it down by 
using a 2x4, being careful not to kink the tin.— 
A few nails through the edges of the tin are suf- 
ticent to hold it in place, then wiih a chalk line; 
strike your lines about two inches apart at the 
top, and three inches at the bottom. Now take a 
wide shingle, lay one edge of it true to your line 



BUlLDF.li-^' GUIDE. 45 



in the v:iliey. then with nnother shingle as ji 
straight edge, ma Ke a line from the butt diago- 
nally across the shingle and straight iip|the root; 
this will give you a pattern by which you can 
cut all the other shingles. Cut the shingles on 
the ground, i i. mme convenient than working 
on the root", and it is a great deal quicker. No 
nails should be driven through the tin nearer 
thin 5 inches the cer.ter of the valley. 



C O R N I C I N G 



Cornicing a building is a job generally dread- 
ed by the carpenter. The inccnvenience of work- 
ing on Nc.ittolds and cramped up places makes it 
very disaureeable work. Cornicing is made a 
irreat deal ejisie'- it good judgment is used in 
buildihii' si'tift'oids at just the right height for 
cotjvenient working. Three men can be advan- 
tageously eniiloyed in cornicing. Let two men 
work on the scatfold, and the third man do near- 
Iv all the cutting of lumber on the ground and 
bandit to the men above already to nail up. A 
man who thoroughly understands how to use 
the square and saw will readily make the prop- 
er cuts so that they will tit better than they 
would had they been sawed on the scaffold by 
the man who has only half a chance to use his 
saw. Three men will do more this way than 
four will, each man cutting lumber for himself, 
and we have found it a very satisfactory way of 
working. 

It is well to have four or iive trestles, five feet 



46 BUILDERS' GUIDE, 

high — they are just i ight for scatlolding around 
porches and ba\ windows and will save many 
times their cost, as well as drivinir nails into the 
new work; They will also save nailing up one 
scaffold in sheeting and siding a building. 
GUTTERS. 



In riiakihg glitters always give them all the 
pitch you «an toward the conductor^ being 
careful to level up the bottoin With a straight 
edge to prevent low placesi lio water should 
stand in a properly constructed gutter. t)o not 
make gutters with perpendicular sides—they Are 
difficult to tin and more liable to leak. Make gut- 
ters V shape, or with flaring sides like a basita 



CORNER BOARDS. 

It is a difficult job to dress out long corner 
boards to be nailed together that will nail up in 
proper shape on the building and without draw- 
ning open at the joint. 

A very good way is to have both casings the 
same width, nail them on so that the inside edg- 
es come together at the corner — then put in a 
quarter round. 



t-ITTING BLINDS. 



Oh account of the bevel of Witidow sills it is a 
little difficult to mark the proper length to cut 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 47 



blinds when titlinn- them. The quicke.'^t and 
most oonvtnient way is, after you have titted 
the side and top, to turn the blind end for end, 
and mark the length by by the head easir.^- of the 
window frame. Blinds should have an eighth 
of inch i)lay, whei-e they come together at the 
rai)beted edge, and a quarter of an inch is not 
any too much at the bottom. 

On new work it is an advantage to hani< blinds 
before the frames leave the shop. 



JOINTING JAM CASINGS. 



Window and door jams should be jointed very 
nearly square on the edge, the outside casings 
are nailed to the inside edge next to the plaster- 
ing should be jointed considerably back in order 
to have the inside casings fit the j-nns closely 
when naile(' on. This is a failing of the carpen- 
ter whicta is generally overlooked and not found 
out until the inside easiim is commenced, then 
it is too late to remedy the improperly jointed 
jams. 

If you want your casings to lit the jams nice^ 
iy, joint the Jams an eightli of an inch back and 
be careful to have them the proper width. 

Door jams should be made of 1 3-4 inch lum- 
ber and rabbeted to receive the door, then we 
have solid frames to case, and to hang doors to 
I 3-4 inch rabbeted jams are nearly as cheap as 
% jams with stops nailed in and are a great deal 
better. 



48 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



i After a butt hns been cut into a Ji yMn there is 
I very little wood left for tlie tsciews to inketbe 
tirm hold thev necessarily should t<> ho;d a rioor 



HANGIiSLG DOORS. 



A door properly fitted and hung should not 
bind on the hinges, drag on the sill or biiiil at 
any part of the frame — pr()l)ably the nearest ap- 
proximate rule is to give the door an ^eighth of 
an inch play in the frame. The proper distance 
to |)lacc tne butts on a common size door is ten 
inches from the bottom and eight inches from 
the top. The ])roper phu'e foi' the lock is for the 
top of the lock to be placed on a line with the 
tnp edg(i of the lock rail of the door. 



SETTING DuOR JAMS. 



The setting rf door jam-i is a \ ( ry particular 
job. In order to have the doors work properly 
when hung, the jams must oe set perfectly plumb 
and true, being carclul to have them mtirely 
out of wind. It is a yei-y good plan in setting 
doorjams to have a board cut the proper length 
and placed between the jams at the bottom, it 
will be a great help in keeping the jams light 
while they are being nailed. Be sure thai the 
trame is square and plumb, then if one jam does 
not come down square to the floor, scribe and 
saw oft* of the jam resting on the floor as much as 
the other lacks ot coming to the floor. To faciii- 



BLILDEU^'GUIDE. 49 

lute setting dour jaiiiis; in sexiing partitions, 
Jeave one door fetud Joose to eu(tli door, to be 
nailed in w Ijen tlie Iraint.' is set 



FRAMING DOOR JAMS. 

Door jams that are to have stops nailed in 
shouid be gaino<l at the height ot the door and 
_ tiie liiieKness of the dooi'-sili. 

liabbelted jams should be gained y^ inch short- 
er, or the depth ot'.the rabbet. 



Cuiiing Pockets in Window Jams. 

For eomm(»n frames in dwellings make the 
l)ocket about 14 inches Jong, cutting from the in- 
side edge of the jam about eight inches from the 
sill, it is better to slant the cut towards the top 
of the jam than the bottom, then when the pock- 
et ]>iec<^s are taken out to put in the weights you 
will not be bothered with sand or pieces of mor- 
tar wh^n ) ou put them oack. 



The grand secret ot scroll sawing is to keep 
your saw sharp and follw the mark. Be sure 
you are right, then go ahead. 

Always keep your tools in good w^orking order, 
as a tool out of order is but little better than 
none at all, and time taken in sharpening tools 



50 BUILDERS' GUIDE. 

is not vvorili as mueli as the lime lost lu Ubiii«j 
(lull ones. 



It is a i»ad practice to let tools and scraps ac- 
cumulate on tlie vvork-liench, till tliey are in the 
vvav of workiuif. Scraps should be thrown in the 
scrap pile, and no more tools Kept on the bench 
than are in constant use. The bench sli( uld be 
kept clean as possible to facilitate work. 



BlaCK Walnut Stain.— Asphalturr^ thinned 
with turpentine makes an excellent black wal- 
nut stain. Stained wood must be varnished over 
if a good job is desired. 

Various Stains.— Quite a variety of stains 
can oe cheaply and quickly made by mixing um 
ber, burnt and raw sienna with turpentine, using" 
more or less, according to the shade wanted. 

PuRPLK Stain. — Extract of logwood dissolved 
in water makes a tine i)urple stain. 

Mahogony Stain.— Equal parts of logwood 
and redwood chips boiled well in water will 
produce a tine mohogony stain. 



LATHING. 



In common lathing the space between the laths 
should be oneqiiarter of an inch; if they be made 
less than that the clinches will not be strong 
enough and if more, they will sag down on the 
ceiling and drop off with their own weight on 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 51 

the sides. Most.latheis break joints every 
seven or eight hub, hut it is better to break 
joints every four or live lath, and in no case 
hiiould ihe studdin;:^" and joists be placed over 1(5 
inches ai)art-~12 Inches would be better, but 16 
are 'aken a© a standard. Lathing- is estimated 
by the square yard, the same as plastering— no 
deduction being made for doors, windows and 
openings not exceeding 64 square teet. 



Bill of Material for 100 Yards of Plaster- 
ing.— Three coats, 8 bushels of lime, 1 bushel of 
hair, I load of sand and 3^ barrel of plaster paris. 
About two bushtl of lime are required for the 
finishing, the other six for the first and second 
coats 



Minis on Estimating. 

SHEETING. 

In estimating sheeting for shingle roofs, nuike 
no allowance for spreading the boards, (calcu- 
late the same as you would to sheet a roof close 
what IS g:ained in spreading the boards is genei*- 
ally lost in the cutting. The proper distance to 
place the boards apart is from 1\^, to 2 inches. 

To Find THE Area of Hip Roofs with Decks: 

— Add the len:;th of the I'oof at the eve& and at 
the deck together, then hiHf of this >um multi- 
plied by the length of the common rafter will 
give the area of the required side. If there are 



52 



Bl]M)>r;S' (il 1D>. 



two or more si(!es iilike iiniltiply by the lumilx r 
of sides. The area of the deck is foiin<M)y mul- 
tipiyingthe length by the width. 

liip Roofs Without Decks.- If a hip roof 
^ runs 11 [).,1,Q a point without a deck. jnultip»y h ilf 
it? length at the eves by the len.i^th of the con.- 
mon rafter, the |)roduet will be tl.e arei of the 
re(iuired,side. If two or moie sides are alike, 
niultii)ly by the number of sides. 

Gablk Hoofs.— To tind the area of the trian- 
gular i)ieces formed in a roof of tliree or more 
gables: 31ultiply the leniztti of 'Ue triangle at 
the comb of the roof by one half the Itngth oi the 
common rafter — the product will be the area of 
Uie triangle. Iftheie are^ two or more alike 
multiply by the requisite number. 

To lind the number of shingles required to. 
cover the roof, multiply the area by 10. 

To Find THE AreA of a Gable.— Multiply 3^ 
the width by the rise above the level of the 
plates. 

To Find how many Bushet s of Grain a Bin 
WILL Hold.— JMultii^ly the length width and 
height together — the product multipled by 4-5ths 
will be the number required. 

To Find how many Bushels of Corn are 
Contained in a Crib.- Multiply the length, 
width and height together— the product multi- 
plied by 2-5ths will be the number required. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE m 


Table Showing the Weight of Windows and 


Weights Required to Hang 


Sash. 1 


WEIGHT 


OF Eight Light windows. 1 


Size. 
9x12 


Thlek- 
ness. 


W*t of window. 
IT lbs 


Wis required. 

4}4 lbs 


10x14 


kt 


10 lbs 


5 lbs 


10x10 


- 


22 lbs 


by. lbs 


12x14 


- 


28 lb 


llis 


12x10 


^' 


'H lbs 


lbs 


12xlS 


" 


27 lbs 


7 lbs 


WEIGHT OF 12 LIGHT WINi>OWS. 1 


Size. 


\ Thick. 


Wt of window. 


VV't required. 


8x10 


1 -.-!.. 


14 lbs 


S]4]Uh 


0x12 


1 3-10 


18 lbs 


4}4 l'>s I 


10x14 


I 8-8 


20 lbs 


^Yi lbs 


10x10 


1 8-8 


27 lbs 


7 Ids 


10x18 


1 8-8 


88 lbs 


81^ lbs 


\* To hang common size windo^vs^ it reqilirfefe 


about 20 feet of sash cord to each windo\V. 



54 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



WEIGHT OF FOUR LIGHT WINDOWS. 



Size. 


Thick. 


VV't otwiiHJow. 


W-t re qui reel. 


12x24 


1% 


22 


bli lbs 


12x28 




24 


•6 lbs 


12x32 


u 


26 


6K lbs 


14x36. 


u 


30 


ly^ lbs 


14x30 


*• 


28 


7 lbs 


14x32 


a 


30 


' 7K 1^>« 


14x34 


. (( 


81 


8 lbs 


14x36 


'* 


32 


8 ^ lbs 



Proportion of Windows and Doors. 



In building it is necessary to exercise u liulo 
judgment in the pi oportioniiig of windows and 
doors to suit the stories. Large ^vindo^vs seem 
to be much desired ev^n in small houses and 
the inexperienced usually maive. the mistake of 
getting windows too long for the h(^ight of sto- 
ries in building cbeap houses, and the carpen 
ter frequently gets into trouble with window 
jfraraes coming too close together, too near the 
roof, or coming in way of the cornice. 
For a 9 Pt story, «, winaow, 12x30, 4 light, is 
about the right size, and is plenty large enough 
to look well, both outside and in. 

Doors to correspond nicely with these win 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 55 



cU')\vs should be 7 feet long although 6 feet 8 inch- 
es will do very \vell7 

The second story of a common house is usually 
about 8 feet fur this height. 12x28, 4 light win- 
dows, and doois, leet G inches louir itre about 
the right proportion. 

For a house with tirst story ten feet and sec- 
ond story 9 teet. The first story windows may 
b(vl4x34, 4 light, and doors 7 feet 6 inches long. 
Second story windows 14x30, 4 light, .and doors 6 
feet 8 inches. Two light windows of the same 
length may be substituted for the 4 light win- 
dows if desired. 

Circumstances alter cases, and the plan of a 
house should be thoroughly studied before or- 
dering doors and windows. Many times odd si- 
zes have to be used but always conform to regu- 
lar sizes when you can. 

STAiRS.-Orders for stairs should give the height 
ot story from floor to floor, width of joists in sec- 
ond story, width and run of stairs and size of 
cylinder with sketch show^ing something of 
the sh:»pe wanted, and the w^ay they turn on the 
landing; also stvie and width of base used in 
hall. 

Orders for lailing worked for straight flight 
shoulrl give the rise and tread of steps as- 
sawed out on the string-board, the number of ri- 
sers, liie size t'f cylinder, A\hi(h war it tun s on 
the landing, and the length of straight rail re- 
quired at head of stairs. 



EVlLDtlife' GUIDE. 



f/loithematlcal and Arc hitea tunal Drawing. 



Tht* ,(!nri)enter sliuuld understand how to read 
(Irawings, iuul a knowledge rf making Ukuj is of 
still greater iuiportain-e. It would require a vol- 
ume to illustrate all the mathematical ^irawings 
that eontinually arise In the carpentry business 

A lew diagrams are given, showing (he prin- 
ciples ot drawing, ai)plicable to tinding the length 
and bevels in cases *f actual work, as they fre- 
quently come to the carpenter. 

By studying the art of drawing, the carpen- 
ter will learn manv things to his advantage, and 
w ill tind it a matter of no small importance to be 
able to convey ideas on paper \)\ means of legible 
drawings. 

Architectural diaw in^is of moderate-cost dwell- 
• ings are not as d ifficiilt to make as a casual ob- 
server would suppose. A costlv outtit of (haw- 
ing tools {)re not needed in plain hand drawing. 
A few of the essential tools are, a goud drawing 
rule, compasses, dividers, pen and pencil points, 
:^ drawing pen, a pr<)tractor and a *'e>v dra>Ying 
percils. 

Practicti and a natural taste for drawingis the 
'*key note to success, if you fail the tirst few 
times to maka a satisfactory drawing, try again. 
Remember that practice and perseverance over- 
come all obstacles In making elevation draw- 
ings, tirst draw the outline of the building and 
begio at tte upper left hand cf>rner to finish 
and work toward the lower righ<. hand corner, 



BUILDERS' GUrOE. 



workitiir Jismuch as practical to keep from pa^-s- 
injr your liands and tools over the tiuished work. 
In makin«: large draw ings, to keep tl^em nice 
and clean, cover the tinislied portions with paj)er 
as much as you ca!i conveniently. 

After yru have drawn the outlines <>f a dwell- 
ing, draw the chimneys, then the cornice, and 
tinish up the roof. Next draw the upper win- 
dows and finish down to the bottom of them, 
drawing the weather boarding lines last, being 
careful not to cross other lines. Before making a 
line, know where to start and stop it. Now^ 
draw the porches and bay windows, the win 
dows and doors of the lirst stoiy and finish down 
to the foundation, finishing porch ste[)s, lattice 
and flnish^under porch last. 

New beginners ought to practice drawing 
doors, windows, porches and bay wincJows sep- 
arately, before trying to draw a house comi)lete 
—it may save them much annoyance. The 
most convenient scales are one quarter inch to 
the foot .for fl »or plans, and one half inch to the 
foot for elevation plans. Detail drawings may be 
drawn at any convenient scale or at full size* 



^ 



^ 



FIGURE I, 



58 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 




FIG-. 2— Showing how to oh 
tain the Length and Bevels 
of Valley and Jack Rafters. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 59 



See Fig (2)— The line AB represents half the 
width of gahle; B C and C D ;tte plates; D E 
h;i]f the width of ti:able to wing; E V and F A 
are th*^ centre lines ot'the building* plumb under 
the ridge; C F is the run of valley rafter; F Gis 
the rise— then (Jr C is the length of valley rafter. 
A l)ovel set in the angle at G will be the top cut, 
and at C will be the bottom cut. Now with C as 
a center, a'.id C G as a radius, strike the arc in- 
tersv^cting ihe center line of the building at B — 
then the line H C siiows the valley rafter in po- 
sition. 

The line from the angle C to I, is the run of 
common rafter; I J is the ris^*, and J C is the 
leno^th. ISow with C as a centre, and C J as a 
radius, strike the arc intersecting the line of 
common rafter at K. K H is the ridge line of the 
building; the lines L L L are the jack rafters, and 
a bevel set in the angle at N will be the cross-" 
cut of the same. The cuts at the top and bot- 
tom representing the pitch of the roof will be the 
same as the common rafter. 



Rule for Finding the Length of Hip-Raf- 
TKR FOR A Regular Hip.— Square the run of the 
common rai*ter, double it, aad the square of the 
rise of hip and extract the square root— the root 
thus obtiuned will be the length of the hip raf- 
ter. 



m 



HUILDKRS- GUIDE. 



Fi- 3 -PLAN OF BIP ROOF, Slmwin^ How to Obtain 
the Lecgth and Bevels of Hip and Jack Eafters. 




Lnt the lines A B, nnd B C. represent the iiinin 
plutes; the lines 1)E ;u)c1 E F, the deck plates: 
tlien B K is the run of hip rafter; now draw at 
light anirles the risp of tl>e rafter, E G. Connect 
(J with Band yo'i have the length ^>*' liip rafter. 
A ht'xel set in the aniilc u\ G will l)e the top cut 
and in Ih'i an^Ie at B the bottom cut. Now with 
B as M centre, and BG as a radius, strike the 
arc intersectinji- the line K F at H— then the line 
11 li shows the hip raft^M- in position to get the 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. (M 

Ipiiirtlis and bevels of the jack- rafters. The 
Imes J J. drawn f om A B to B H, are the jack- 
riifters, and a bevel set in the angle at K will be 
tiie cross-cut of the same. The plumb cut at the 
top and the bottom cut representina: the pitch of 
the roof will be Lh > same as that of tiio common 
rafter. Phe line, L E, is the run of commen raf 
ter; K D is the rise, then the line D L is the 
length of common rafter 



FIG. 4 




RIGHTANGLE TRIANGLE. 



Squarino: a number is multiplying it by itself 
and is a term us'^d in square root. Carpenters 
should understand the system of square root as 
they frequently have occasion to use it in vari- 
ous ways for finding lengths and areas. 

The plan of a rafter represents a rigtangle- 
tri-anjrle. iSeeFio(4.) The line, A B, is the run, 
and is called the base; A*C is the rise ana is 
called the perpendicular; then C B is the pitch 
line, or rafter, and is called the hypotenuse. 



62 



i:r]ii)Ei I-' (UHDE. 






:PI&TJI?.E 3: 



Showing how to Obtain the Bevels in Join- 
ing Level and Gable Planceers 




BUILDERS' GUIDE. 63 

See Fig. oi—Let tlu^ lines .^ B, B C and C A, 
rei)resent the front gable; the lines B D, D E 
and E C the \vin<;- irable. ^ow erect a purpen- 
diciilar in the center of gable at F and continue 
it ind( finitely ; then measure from F to a point 
direcil}^ under where the rid^e of main and wing- 
roots meet at G; connect G with B for the run 
of valley rafter, draw the rise, G H, and connect 
H with B for the length. Noiv with B as a cen- 
ter and B H as a radius, strike the arc inter- 
secting the perpendicular line F at I; r-ounect T 
with B and set a bevel the in angle at J for cut- 
ting the level planceer, and in the angle formed 
at B bv the lines K G, G H and li B for cutting 
the gable planceer. 



IVJAKII^O A IVIIXER KOX Toi- Ciittitij^ 
IfliMildiiig'N IVi'icreXvi'o iiisible^ Cor- 
ner a net Joining* ^jisible .Tlonltlin^^* 
>viirli I^<^Tel i^lovilding' of* :i f luni1> 
Cornice. 

When two gables corner uso the same bevel 
for the cross-cut in th'» box that you do for the 
jack rafters, and for cutting down the sides of 
box, use the i)lumb-cut of the pitch of roof. 

In joinirg a gable moulding of a plumb corn- 
ice, cut the level moulding on a square miter 
and the gable moulding in the box as described 
above. The cut. Fig. (1) is a fair representa- 
tion of a miter box for making these difficult 



64 



BUJLDEK^' GUIDE. 



joints. Tbe y:;ible mouUliug- to match tlie level 
moulding should be worked by hand, but if tbe 
gable moulding is onehait* inch larger than the 
level a v(ry good joo can be d(uie. 




BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 65 



FIG, 6. -Plan of an Irregnlar HipEoof. 



An irregular hip roof is one in which the roof on 
one side of the hip is longer than the other. The 
diagram on page 64 is a plan of an ii regular hip, 
shdwing how to obtain the lengths and htVels 
of all the rafters. 

In the dntwing, A B and B G represent the 
main plates; D E and E F the deck plates; B E 
is the run of hip-rafter; E G the rise and G B is 
the length. 

Now with B as a center and B G as a radius, 
strike the arc intersecting the deck plates at H 
and I, connect I with Band you have the hij)- 
ra*'ter in position for getting the length and bev- 
els of jack-rafters for the short side of the hip.~ 
Connect H with B and you have the hip-rafter in 
position for getting the length and bevels of jack- 
rafters for the long side t)f the hip. 

The lines J J are the jack-rafters for the short 
side of hip and extend from the line A B to the 
line B ^, and a bevel set in the angle at L will 
be the cross-cut at the top, and the bottom cut 
will be the same as that of the common rafter 
for the short side of the hip. The lines K K are 
the jack rafters for the long side of hip and ex- 
tend from the line B C to the line B^H, and a bev- 
el set in the angle at M will be the cross-cut of 
the same; the plumb cut at the top and the bot- 
tom cut will be the same as that of the comm in 
rafter for the long side of the hip. 

A bevel set in the angle at B, formed by the 
lines B E, E G, and G B will be the bottom cut of 

• ,v.-..>.v.^ .v»-s.s.. wii*-»-».4 v./«.^;i-^ ,., 



6t> 



BUILDER'S GUIDE- 



ihe hip rafter, and a bevel set at G will be the 
top cut. 

The line N E is the run of common rafter for 
the short side of roof; E D is the rise, and D N 
the lensrth. A bevel set at N will be the bottom 
cut and at L the top cut. 

The line C E is the run of common rafter for 
the long side of roof; F is the rise and FC 
is the length. A bevel set at C will be the hot 
l;0m cut and at F the top cut. 

Rule for Finding Length of Hip Rafter 
FOR AN Irregular Hip.— Square the run of 
commmon rafter of both the long and short sides 
of the hip, square the rise of hip, add the three 
squares together and extract the square root.— 
The root thus obtained will be the length of the 
hip rafter required. 



DESIGNS OF HOUSES. 




Design U—A Prairie Cottage -Cost $500. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 67 

DESIGN 2. 
A Village Residence, 11-2 Story — Cost 
SI 000. Suitable for a Narrow Lot, I 




First Floor Plan. 




Second Floor. 



68 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



DESIGN 3, 

Plan of J. W. Wilson's tRESiDENCE, fl miles south-east of 
Atlantic, Iowa. This is a large and attractive Farm house, 

^ VERY conveniently ARRANGED — 2 STORIES — COST $2,000 




y^^ First Floor. 



BUILDERS^ GUIDE. 



CHAM3lt 

18X23 




Second Floor. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



DESIGN A.-^Firsi Floor Plan. 




M Suburban City Residence—Cost $1,900 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



71 




Second Floor Plan. 



72 



BUILDER5S' GUIDE. 



DESIGN 5. 

A Convenient City Residence- 2 Stories— Cost $1,700. 



■B*jjp 



-n—=- 



J. 



First Floor Plan. 









^ 


K.S 1 

.OP 1 


CLOSET 


CD 

m 

^ 3) 

Jo o 






/ 



Second Floor Plan. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 



73 



DESIGN 6. 

R ri-2 story CottagE—Cost $B5D. 




First Floor Plan. 




Second Floor. 



I 



1 LILP] li>- (it: IDE 



DESIGN 9. 

B. B. Harris' resicenc, 4 Miles North of Atlantic Ia. 

A HANDSOME FARM HOUSF- 




Vr 



unu 




First Floor Plan. 



BUILIJKMS' (iLIDK. 




'JOOIJ puooQS 



76 



BUILDER'S GUIDE- 







BUUJJI^HS' GLIDK. 



DESIGN 8."Wm. Duncan's Octagon Farm 

House Large and Convenient-' 

Cost $2,200. 




Second 



BUILDER'S GUIDE- 



A MODEL HOUSE.-DESIGN-10. 




First Floor Plan, 




Second Floor. 



BUILDERS' GUIDE. 79 



COST OF RUILDING. 

" As the cost of building varies according lo qual. 
ity of material used and tlie class of work being 
done, it should be remembered that good houses 
may be erected, acccording to the designs shown, 
for from one to three hundred dollars less than 
the cost as stated in the estimates named in the 
diagrams given. In difterent localities the cost 
may vary even more. 

31 any houses are built without drawings and 
speciiioations, but most houses so built are In. 
conveniently arranged and not properly propor- 
tioned—do not look neat and attractive, and are 
unsatisfactory. At this age of improvement peo- 
ple desire to see, before commencing to {build, 
how their dwellings will appear when completed 
—also to know the exact cost. The best satis, 
faction Is only reached through means of draw- 
ings and specifications and employing skilled 
workrren to carry out the designs. 

For the benefit of those who wish to build af- 
ter any of the designs in this work, large and 
complete drawings, drawn to working scales, 
showing elevations, floor plans and full details 
throughout^ together with specifications and a 
reliable bill of quantities sent post-paid at the 
following price: 

Dedgn 1— a Prairie Cottage $5 00 

Bill of quantities, without drawings and 
specifications 1 00 

Design 2— A Village Residence 10 00 



80 



BUlLDETwh' (UJIDE. 



Bill of qiiaiUitie^ without nra wings and 
spu'ciucat ons 1 50 

Design 3— A largeKann iluuse 12 00 

Bill ofqiianlitiub witlioul (li a\vin<:s and 

speciiicatioiis 150 

Design 4— A Suburban Residence. ... . 15 00 
B 11 of (]uantities wiilioni drawings and 

speeiiicalUMib .. . . . 1 50 

D.sign|)— A Convenient Ciiy. Residence 12 Oo 
Bill of (luaniitie-^ w'ilin.ut drawings and 

speeilieaiioiis 1 50 

Design (i — A one an-a-half ^to^y cuttage 10 00 
Bill of ciuantilies w ithout drawings and 

sjecilleaiions 1 50 

Design 7 — A Convenient Cottage G 00 

Bill of (iiinl ities witlioui drawings and 

speeiricatious :.. . . 1 00 

Design 8 — a twu) stoiy Octagon liouse.. 12 00 
Bill of (luaniitiOs wiiiioi t drawiiiis and 

t^peeincai ions. 1 75 

Design — A handsome Farm Htdise... 12 00 
Bill of quantities witlioul designs and 

si)eei Ilea lions 1 50 

Design 10— A Model Ho'ise.... 10 00 

Bill ofquatitities wiiiiout drawings and 

speitications 1 50 



vny changes in the al)<»Ne designs, such as 
rhanLing paniiions, enlaiging or lediiciiig tli" 
^i/<,' (d* buidin^ will be made free at the abOve 
piie'S. li is only necessary Vn sCnd a rough 
t-ke(r ofwhatNod Want to eiia le u> to arrange 
it in a practical form. We wil. ) « ( pare draw- 
ings and si)eciti('ations nf an\ woik in onr line 
• •fbusiness at r- asonable limirt s. By sending a, 
description and sketch of >\hat is wanted prices 
•vill 1 e given on receii)tof a| i)lication. 







I. P. HICKS. 

ARCHITECT, CARPENTER And BOLDER 

153 "WEST 5th,. STREET, 



^^^K LIB 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




020 108 839 2 




